The Hôtel de Pavie with its Table de Pavie represents excellence and prestige in Saint-Emilion. A 5-star Relais & Châteaux establishment, the high-end gourmet restaurant menu has been signed by Yannick Alléno for 2 years now.
The Perse family, owner of the place, and Chef Yannick Alléno clearly show their ambition to become a real gastronomic reference for the region, a locomotive cuisine of the Bordeaux region.
In order to highlight the dazzling view over the rooftops of Saint-Emilion and the vineyard, the Perse family wanted to enhance the hotel’s terrace. The atmosphere of this terrace at the foot of the bell tower and overlooking the medieval city is absolutely magical.
The cuisine is brilliantly provided by Executive Chef Sébastien Faramond and Pastry Chef Sébastien Nabaile:
The terrace has a new glass roof that allows you to enjoy the view even in gloomy weather. This canopy extends the bar, completely redone, and makes it the central element of this space with a mixture of wood and stone.
We take advantage of this beautiful evening to have an aperitif on the terrace:
Homemade fried bread and sardine rillettes with black garlic and tarragon
For this exceptional meal, we will choose different dishes with Dominique to taste all the dishes offered on the menu ^^ (all the details of the menus and the menu here)
Then head to the magnificent dining room, which has undergone a few decorative changes, a renovation by Giorgio Azzi; clear and timeless colors that diffuse the light, always a beautiful height under ceiling and the omnipresent theme of the vine with delicate and subtle touches.
Let’s go for a high-flying taste journey.
Appetizers that set the tone:
Buckwheat tartlet, foie gras mayonnaise, mushrooms powdered with curry, and to rinse the palate, cold extraction of celery
It’s already off to a strong start with this little tart to be enjoyed in one bite. Roundness, interplay of textures, indulgence, an explosively creative appetizer, superb.
Tarbais beans as a garbure with green cabbage extraction
We find here all the elements of the traditional Gascon garbure, but modernized in the Grand Chef way ^^ with a Tarbais bean royale, a Comté Viennese and the green cabbage garbure poured at the time. Superb idea to stay fully in the southwest, excellent.
Everything is homemade, churning butter as well as the different breads offered.
We attack the serious things!
First tomatoes worked from the flesh to the pips, pieces of juicy peaches, rice jelly with basil oil
Tomatoes worked in extraction, in fermentation, a few fresh almonds, rice water jelly binds the whole, a green zebra sorbet reinforces the freshness of the dish. It’s huge in taste, we are in the quintessence and intensity of the product. Perfect.
An almost vegetal walk in Entre-Deux-Mers, fine shiny shavings of Gascon bacon
A spring stroll with different vegetables from the region (fresh green beans, peas, chanterelles… 27 items in total) with extractions, fermentations and a veil of Gascon bacon that ties the whole thing together and brings even more indulgence. A very nice trip to the land of “vegetables”!
Bordelais leaf of potatoes in the air, artichoke and celeriac, sorrel and XO cognac vapor
Like a Landais Bordeaux-style leaf, artichoke heart, apples, celery, fir gel, grated walnuts and Hennessy cognac spray. Through this dish we can clearly see the desire to stick to the region to represent it as best as possible, the Landaise pie is not far away. We adhere completely by savoring these different products, a beautiful balance between the elements, everything is perfectly dosed, without fail.
Foie gras with verjus and small white grapes, cockles and mushroom tobacco
Just-tempered foie gras escalope, Noilly Prat broth, cockles, fresh grapes, seaweed jam… Another beautiful harmony in flavors with the rational approach of a perfectly executed cuisine with unexpected touches that make the beauty of the ‘plate.
We continue with a surprise egg… or the surprising hen that lays caviar ^^
Poached organic egg with Aquitaine caviar surprise, watercress, croutons, modern smoked eel sauce
So there we open our eyes wide for this extraordinary egg, which just pierced, triggers an avalanche of caviar. Thrill seekers, you’ve come to the right place.
The egg is stuffed with caviar and watercress, served with eel butter toast and cress. This dish is fabulous, the surprise effect is guaranteed and we are dazzled by this starter of extreme finesse and remarkable execution.
To complete the whole, the sauce gently envelops the palate. The vocabulary may be dithyrambic, but it is not up to par! A candy bomb.
White stew of blue lobster à la bordelaise, purple orach
Breton lobster worked à la bordelaise with a Graves white wine sauce, claw au gratin with beef marrow, lobster coral and juniper. We find one of the elements that Yannick Alléno loves to work with, namely the beef marrow which guarantees an exceptional roundness in the mouth.
Yannick Alléno once again becomes the interpreter of the terroir that surrounds the restaurant. This was the wish of the owners of the Table de Pavie. Make the territory speak and make the Saint-Emilion experience even more immersive thanks to local cuisine; the objective has been achieved and Chef Sébastien Faramond is a very talented spokesperson. A big thumbs up.
Turbot cooked on the marrow bone with vine shoots, lightly grilled fine green beans, modern sauce whipped with hazelnut butter
Impeccable cooking, beef marrow cooked on the bbq which gives character and smoky notes to the dish, a silky sauce with a good taste of hazelnut… legible flavors, a false mastered simplicity, top.
Poultry air, raised at the Vertessec estate, small cold pasta, chicken liver sauce, white wine minced in yellow wine, shortbread potatoes and chanterelle mushrooms with apricots and a few verbena leaves
The poultry is puffed and roasted, served with a yellow wine emulsion, candied apricots and chanterelle mushrooms; on the side, potatoes with a mixed mixture of fried shallots, chicken skins and sweetbreads. Generosity, gluttony, everything is there, perfectly executed, another superb dish that amazes.
Rack of lamb, cutlets with fleur de sel, iodized olive juice, Villeroy sweetbread gratin and Belon oysters with sorrel
Roasted lamb with a sauce made from oysters and kalamata olives, wilted spinach with nutmeg; on the side, au gratin with Belon oysters, lamb sweetbreads, sorrel and Villeroy sauce. A medium-rare cooking as requested for the meat, but the emphasis will be on the absolutely remarkable sauce. Yannick Alleno’s passion for sauces once again comes into its own with a unique concentration of flavors. The gratin is an indisputable must that gives a crazy relief to the main product. Daring combinations, a breathtaking result for this dish of iodized vivacity that jostles the senses. Enormous!
A magnificent cart of cheeses, mostly local:
…accompanied by a Bordeaux crown and served with oil and walnut husk:
Sébastien Nabaile’s desserts for the sweet score:
Strawberry macaronade, wine crystal and farmhouse cream
Almond meringue crust, strawberry gel with Pineau des Charentes, double cream, marigold leaves for freshness and crystal of strawberries in red wine. Textures, fruit, delicacy.
Extraction of a melon, iced spoom with castle lemon leaves and wild fennel
Candied melon accompanied by a “spoom” (mix between sorbet and Italian meringue with caviar lemon seeds inside), and cold extraction of melon, crystallized fennel on top. A dessert of great freshness, we play on the purity and intensity of taste, topissime.
Baked beets and rhubarb with vanilla, meringue and a cloud of cream cheese
A classic from Chef Sébastien Nabaille, rhubarb and beetroot. These ingredients do not always sell dreams, but nevertheless well worked, Sébastien knows how to make them very greedy. The beetroot and rhubarb are cut very thinly into strips, rolled up in spirals and cooked with vanilla without adding sugar. The natural beet sugar will slowly confite the dessert. This “frayed” is then served with a cloud of meringue made with a light cheese mousse. The meringue is made with birch sugar, so a dessert really without adding sugar.
A daring dessert with a nice risk taking, the earth meets the acidity, and the sweetness of the light meringue comes to balance the whole with accuracy. We are surprised by this beautiful consistency, a very good dessert.
Warm chocolate tart, Maury sauce, Tahitian vanilla ice cream
Crunchy pie base enhanced by the addition of pastries (dried then blended before being added to the dough), soft chocolate cooked to order, Maury icing, and for freshness, textured vanilla ice cream from Madagascar. Words speak for themselves, a dessert for chocolate lovers, it’s intense in chocolate and super greedy.
Armagnac flambé ice cream, extraction of white wine and brioche, egg white with orange
A nod to Gascon country with this dessert made on a base of custard without milk, without cream, with in particular bases of extraction of white wine and brioche which really give the taste of custard. Flambéed Armagnac ice cream, very light egg white, a captivating, powerful dessert with a good length in the mouth and above all delicious.
Infusions of fresh herbs with the Chefs:
Small passage in the kitchens:
Yannick Alléno claims a French cuisine, strong and full of modernism, aa cuisine that draws on tradition to then better surprise the palate thanks to the extractions and sauces, the chef’s hobbyhorses.
Taste is a priority; here we are not necessarily looking to make instagrammable dishes, we want to dazzle the palate and it is undeniably successful.
Yannick Alléno emphasizes that the success of the Table de Pavie is above all excellent teamwork. The chef can rely on a solid brigade under the leadership of Executive Chef Sébastien Faramond and Pastry Chef Sébastien Nabaile; both knew how to surround themselves with a competent and faithful team to take up the challenge: to carry the Table Pavie towards culinary excellence.
In addition to the quality and excellence of the dishes served at La Table de Pavie, we can also highlight the perfection of the service, the metronomic pace throughout the meal, and always the benevolence and efficiency of Guillaume Bouillier as Master d’Hôtel and Benoît Gélin as sommelier.
The House of Suites – Hotel de Pavia:
To prolong the pleasure, the Hôtel de Pavie offers top-of-the-range rooms and suites in the spirit of luxurious and elegant charming houses. The latest addition is the Maison des Suites, located in a former 18th century trading house, in the heart of the village and in the immediate vicinity of the hotel. Signed Jean-Philippe Nuel, the Suites are particularly generous (from 80 to 140 m2) and designed in compliance with heritage preservation rules.
The design of the new suites is refined to highlight blond stone and simple traditional materials, such as lime and wood.
The Perse family wanted, through the renovation of this old building, to highlight the heritage, while adding the touch of modernity which reigns everywhere in the hotel… a magnificent success!
Between the Hôtel de Pavie and its Table, the moment can only be a memorable stopover!